So it's been about two weeks since I left Istanbul. It's been 8 days since I moved back to vermont. I only had four days at home with my family. I'm starting to settle in and get into a schedule, but there's still hiccups along the way.
SO I have decided I need to rewrite my post about the Israli protest in Istanbul, post my thoughts, stories and lessons from spring break, and write about my thoughts on coming home and leaving Istanbul. I think I'll keep the blogg going as this summer has already proven it's going to be a great one filled with more research, sunny days, hazy nights, hiking, and sailing and all that good stuff. If you want feel free to check back in a few days and all summer long.
As the ipod playlist, I've a added few things - the new MGMT ablum I love it, some Chiddy Bang songs as I have come to think he's a supercool undrground rapper, while abroad I discovered the glory of LDC Soundsystem. But I can't forget the classsics, I made sure to add some more Eagles as they are always good in the summer as well as more Allman Brothers and more CCR.
more in a few...
First, I realize I never wrote about spring break, but I just haven't had to time sit down and truly reflect on all that I experienced and saw in that short period of time. I promise as soon as finals are done I'll post my thoughts and pictures.
Right now, I cannot believe I only have six days left here. I am stoked to go home, see my family, friends and alex, watch the Celtics beat the Lakers, and eat tons of cheese and steaks, but I am having a hard time saying goodbye to Istanbul. It has truly become a place I love. Actually I want to reflect on this later. Right now I want to talk about two things: Eurovision and the Israeli thing. I think I may write about Israel in another post a little later as the topics do not relate at all.
OK So Eurovison - the greatest show/ song contest ever. Keep in mind, I am not an american idol fan. Apparently, it has existed since the 50s. Basically, each country participating submits a song (previously unreleased). On Wednesday and Thursday night, there is a semifinals, in which, top 21 songs are picked. The Big Four - UK, France, Germany, and Spain- automatically qualify for rating purposes. On Saturday Night, there are the Finals. Each song is perform for two minutes to large productions with lights, props, video and sometimes fire or fireworks. No more then six people allowed on stage. The performances are super dramatic, its great. Some of them are truly incredible and make Lady Gaga look like a child's production, while others just down right silly.
After all the performances, there's a really long commercial break allowing viewers and judges to vote. Voting is determined by country. Each country has three judges, they pick the country's three favorites awarding them 12, 10, 8 points respectively. Then the viewers from the country pick the seven each getting 7-1 points determined by ranking. It's a crazy process but if you see it live, you just might understand it.
The best part is the judges votes because they are so political. Foe example, Greece's 12 points went to???? that's Cyprus. Who did Cyprus give first too? Greece. It was awesome to witness how forward each country was about it. No one even tried to hide their alliances. I loved it, perhaps, it's because I'm a major poli-sci dork, but whatever. I'm not the only one. Apparently, (i read it in a newspaper article) there are all types of professors and scholars that have written about it. It just one of pop culture things that completely displays the political feelings of the time.
Second best part, not all the countries in it are from Europe. Israel, anyone? I can't wait to try to watch online next year.
Here's the top three performances and some of my favorites via youtube:
1) Germany - Satellite
2) Turkey - We Could Be the Same
3) Romamia - Playing with Fire
Greece - Opa
Azerbaijan - Drip Drop
Moldova - Run Away (this one is just funny)
I have come to the conclusion that I do want to have some time to explore things before I head to grad school. I'm pretty sure that I want to study international relations in some type of form. I do not know in what concentration yet. Perhaps I'll come back and work for NGO or go somewhere else. I don't know but I know none of these decisions need to be made now. I just know that this experience has given me more options and more confidence... both are good things.
First, I went to the Whirling Dervishes museum. The Whirling Dervishes (Mawlawi Order) are a sect of Sufi order of Islam. The order started in Konya in the 13th century. They are known for their elaborate dances, which are in remembrance of God. The museum is pretty cool. You have to treat it like a Mosque. You must take off your shoes and wear a headscarf a well. Many people go to the Museum to pray at the tomb of the founder of the order. Konya is the type of place that attracts Turkish tourists rather then international tourist.
I can't believe it has been almost a month since I last posted! I just got back from backpacking through Syrıa and Jordan to Ciaro. I will post about that and life in Istanbul over the next few days...Stay Tuned!
Today, the region is both beautiful and corny. The formations take your breathe away, while it is clear that tourism is the region's only source of income. We stayed in cave hotel called Bedrock. Cave hotels are everywhere. Ours was actually a hostel, but it was pretty sweet, and we had our own bathroom and shower. Our hosts were very accomdaating, they sat us down with a map and gave us a full explanation of the area. What cave cities were worth seeing and which weren’t, what attractions we would enjoy. They understood that we had a short time there and helped us make the most of it. After an 11 hour over night bus trip, it was a relief to have the information right in front of us. 
We headed to the open air museum in which we could see the remenants of the monks. It was pretty cool, surely impressive. On the walk over there, we ran into a guy offering camel rides, as this was one of my goal, how could I say no? So I got to ride a camel along a mountain path. Once on the camel, I couldn’t believe how high up I was or how bumpy the ride was. All in all, it was great time.
Next we opted for an atv tour of the scenery. I think this was the highlight of trip for me (other then my camel ride). For the tour, we were able to ride an ATV through the sand and mountains seeing views no hotel could offer. We were able to stop and take pictures whenever we wanted. As a part of it, we were allowed to see a cave home. Literally, this family lived in cave with a living room, kitchen, dining room, and bedrooms. The rooms were small, the floors, ceilings, and sometimes walls were all rock. The appeal is they're warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Many of them have been in their families for generations. 
Edirne is known for three things - soaped shaped like fruits, Mosques, and liver. The soaps were pretty corny. As always the Mosques were beautiful. There was one in particular, one really cool one. We had walked rather far from the city and were in a not so great area. There was a little Mosque that I thought we should walk into. It was a little after 6, so I wasn't sure if I could enter so I asked the man outside. The little old man couldn't have been more excited. "Are you american?" "Evet (yes)" I answered. He showed us the Mosque, took us into the woman's section, gave a history of the Mosque and the town, and gave us a tour of the garden, which had tomb's of Sultan's children. It was another wonderful moment once again displaying how nice Turkish people can be.
Before Thursday's Kurdish event, came Wednesday's Irish Holiday. I had no idea what to expect. Does anyone really expect much when they hear St. Patrick's Day in Istanbul? I think not, but Ronan and Steve (both from Ireland) insisted that we all go out. So Arielle, Jen, and I headed to bar called James Joyce. We had a full Irish breakfast for dinner complete with actual BACON! When we ordered beers, they were Green! It was awesome and rather funny that my first green beer on St. Paddy's day was in Istanbul of the places. The bar was filled with probably every American student in Istanbul but it was a good start. Next was our adventure for the night. Ronan and Steve were determine to find a pub called Belfast. Of course it was on the Asian side of Istanbul and of course we were going with our German Wolf. So we left the crowded James Joyce and took a dolmus (small taxi/large bus) to the ferry. On the ferry, we had our tea and we made friends with some other Germans that were heading to the same bar. None of us knew how to get here but our quest to find a beer on tap other then efes (Turkey's only beer?) would not be stopped. We stumbled off the ferry and around Kadikoy until finally some Turks took pity on us and directed us to our pub. It was crowded but not as corny as James Joyce was and it had a full Irish band playing. There were some funny moments such as a Turk asking Ronan if all of the UK celebrated the holiday or just the Irish part? Or Wolf attempting to sing Dannyboy. All in all Istanbul provided us with a pretty good St. Paddy's.
2) Laleli Mosque - a smaller Mosque with no complex around it. It sits on a brick platform that offers grand views of Istanbul especially in the Sun. It has the best stain glass window with pastel colors lighting the whole inside up and it's light blue carpet is just more then other Mosques. It offers peace in a very hectic part of Istanbul.
Of all the places, though, my favorite is the Chora. I can not rave about it enough. It is astounishing that such old mosaics can be recovered and seen in today in such fantastic shape. If there was one place I would recommend visitors of Istanbul to attend that be would it. When I ever go there, I wish so badly that my Aunt Anna could visit me. I cannot help but think how much she would love love love Istanbul- it's history, it's architecture, it's respect for religion and culture. She would take in every sight and be able to offer insights on all of it. I just know that Chora would be her favorite as well as.
On Saturday, we hopped on a tour provided by the school. We saw the Chora, the AyaSofya, Fatih Mosque, and Şehzadebaşı Mosque. The day was long but wonderful. The Chora is simplest the most amazing place I ever seen. The former christian church was turned into a Mosque like almost all former churches in Istanbul. Now it is a museum that houses some of the world's best Christian mosaics. They were the first of its kind for the area and the time. Many of them have been recovered and restored including the death of virgin Mary and the the dome that houses the ancestry of Jesus. The Ayasofya was pretty incredible as well. The size of the Dome never ceases to amaze. It is a wonder how they built it with out any major columns. 
So we decided this weekend, we going to go to the Asian side of the city no matter. But first we had to get through the second week of classes. This week meant the end of the add/drop period, so schedules would be finalized. Through the school, I'm taking Intro to Turkish Politics, Middle Eastern Politics, and Ceramics (more on that later). Through the Lexia program, I have a Turkish Language course (we meet four days a week) and a research seminar that will end with my field research project, Turkey and EU: Who actually Benefits?
With this, we still had a solid amount of free time to do things during the week. So on Tuesday after ceramics, we decided to head to the mall. Not just any mall but the largest mall in Europe. I went expecting madness but for the most part, the mall was pretty elegant. Built in 2005, the mall is four floors of shopping, two floors split between an Atlantis themed arcade (rollercoaster, too) and movie theater, plus a two floor food court. It was a good time. It took about four hours to walk the whole thing. There was no Macys or Nordstroms, but there was Home Depot and Supermarket as well as a dry cleaners and bowling alley. In addition it's home to the world's largest clock. The food court is home to many American staples - BK, Mickey D's, KFC, Doms, and Krispy Kreme if only if it had Wings Over.... we choose to eat a Turkish restaurant and then headed back to campus tired and full.
Upon getting off the ferry and walking towards the bus stop, we encounter our first problem. Where are all the buses? What's up with all this police? Why is everyone walking? Not a car in sight, police in riot gear, and we had no idea why. So let's just walk it. We start to walk in the same direction as everyone, figuring that was best. After a short walk down the street, under a bridge and around the corner, we stumbled into a really, really large group of women (hundreds upon hundreds). Some dressed in very colorful traditional outfits, others just in headscarves, and still more just in jeans and tee shirts. They had signs, posters, banners, and some large traditional dance circles. Having absolutely no idea what was happening, we stayed to watch. We took pictures and videos in awe of what we are seeing.
Eventually, an older woman (clearly an event organizer) came me up to us and handed us each a hand band thing (see pics). We took them and thanked her. But she was not done with us. Kadin? Kadin? she kept asking us. Kadin means woman. Evet (yes) we answered and then she pulled into the crowd. She had us link arms with the other women and it was clear that we'd start marching soon. Needless to say with my height and hair, I stood out like a sore thumb, but it turned to be a rather funny thing. While waiting for the march to begin, a number of the women kept coming up to us, Nerelisin? (where are you from). Amerkaliyim ( I'm American) one of us would answer. Immediately, excitement over took their faces and they put out their hands to shake ours, some them even went straight in for the hug. All of them insisted on taking pictures of us with them on their cellphones or cameras. It was like we were celebrities. Seriously, I had never been in so many pictures in my life. They were so happy that we stood in solidarity with them.
