Cappadocia


What a weekend! Once again, I left Istanbul to travel through Turkey.  This time I travel to Cappadocia in central Turkey.  With caves, incredible geology, and an interesting history, Cappadocia is a beautiful region. First, the location of region (between two techtonic plates) has left it vulnerable to volcano eruptions in the past. The left over ash combined with caves, mountains, and dry weather have created incredible rock formations. Check out these pictures.


Historically, the region was actually Christian and Greek. Between the 6th and 12th century, the town of Grome (where I stayed) was home to a cave dwelling order of  monks. Now you may think that sounds like no fun, but I assure you it was much cooler then Fraggle Rock. They actually had caves that were churches with domes that housed mosaics and paintings. Some of this has been recovered and can viewed at the open air- museum.

Today, the region is both beautiful and corny. The formations take your breathe away, while it is clear that tourism is the region's only source of income. We stayed in cave hotel called Bedrock. Cave hotels are everywhere. Ours was actually a hostel, but it was pretty sweet, and we had our own bathroom and shower. Our hosts were very accomdaating, they sat us down with a map and gave us a full explanation of the area. What cave cities were worth seeing and which weren’t, what attractions we would enjoy. They understood that we had a short time there and helped us make the most of it. After an 11 hour over night bus trip, it was a relief to have the information right in front of us.

We headed to the open air museum in which we could see the remenants of the monks. It was pretty cool, surely impressive. On the walk over there, we ran into a guy offering camel rides, as this was one of my goal, how could I say no? So I got to ride a camel along a mountain path. Once on the camel, I couldn’t believe how high up I was or how bumpy the ride was. All in all, it was great time.

Next we opted for an atv tour of the scenery. I think this was the highlight of trip for me (other then my camel ride). For the tour, we were able to ride an ATV through the sand and mountains seeing views no hotel could offer. We were able to stop and  take pictures whenever we wanted. As a part of it, we were allowed to see a cave home. Literally, this family lived in cave with a living room, kitchen, dining room, and bedrooms. The rooms were small, the floors, ceilings, and sometimes walls were all rock. The appeal is they're warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Many of them have been in their families for generations.

Touring from sight to sight meant riding through Grome, which was very interesting. It definitely was a poorer area that only knew tourism as a source of income. It played up the caves, traditional Turkish this and that even the town bar was called the Flinstone cave. Some parts were abandoned or very run down. It was sad to see the steep comparison between overpriced hotel and rundown/ abandon home.
 
Later that night, we attended a traditional Turkish dinner in a cave. It had traditional folk dancers, belly dancers, and whirling dervishes. It was definitely a super tourist thing to attend but it was really, really fun.

The next morning we successly navigated our way from Grome to an underground city by way of minibuses and then to Nevshir to some museums. The underground city was cool, but for someone of my height it was not very fun and  quickly I was over it. After that, we spent day museum hopping. At the end of the afternoon, we had to catch our bus to the next destination.... more to follow on Konya tomorrow.

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Another City, Another Mosque? Bus Trip to Edirne

Another week in Istanbul, another set of stories. I seem to be checking things off the Must See in Istanbul List pretty quickly. This week I went to the The Underground Cistern. It was built in the 6th century. It is support by some 300 columns and it's nine miles long. Its dark, dingy and it smells. But then I looked again and thought, these columns have been here seen the 6th CENTURY? Really? There have been many devasting earthquakes throughout Istanbul even as recently as 1992. Many of these historic symbols have been alter by them, but not the Cistern. I find that to be quite amazing. Think about it's underground, it was probably shaken the most. Yet 300 hundred columns have lasted. Pretty Cool.


I also successfully haggled at the Grand Bazaar this week. I decided it's time to start thinking about gifts and souvenirs. It seems the Grand bazaar is the place for me as I was able to get some Turkish flutes, slippers, and elma cay for under 20 lira.

The big trip this weekend was the bus trip to Edirne. Edirne is a well known city right on the border of Greece. I honestly I wasn't sure what to expect. I didn't really know why we're going to Edirne, but it sounded fun so off I went. We went to bus station by school bought our bus tickets, hopped on a service bus that went to the largest bus stop I had ever seen and from there hopped on the bus that would take us to Edirne. Three hours later, we were there.

Edirne is known for three things - soaped shaped like fruits, Mosques, and liver. The soaps were pretty corny.  As always the Mosques were beautiful.  There was one in particular, one really cool one. We had walked rather far from the city and were in a not so great area.  There was a little Mosque that I thought we should walk into. It was a little after 6, so I wasn't sure if I could enter so I asked the man outside. The little old man couldn't have been more excited.  "Are you american?" "Evet (yes)" I answered. He showed us the Mosque, took us into the woman's section, gave a history of the Mosque and the town, and gave us a tour of the garden, which had tomb's of Sultan's children. It was another wonderful moment  once again displaying how nice Turkish people can be.

I tried the liver for dinner, but I'm still not feeling. Even though it is prepared differently, it just not my thing. Edirne had a really cool archeology museum with artifacts from Turkey and Greece.  Also the many of Mosques had Arabic writing something not seen in Istanbul. It was interesting. The bus ride back was again three hours, but Turkish bus rides are pretty epic. They are super cheap and really nice. They give you cay (tea), water or soda, cookies or crackers, and on the bus back we each had an individual screen and choices of movies. If the bus ride from VT to Boston was like that, I might actual take it every once in a while. all in all great day trip.

I'm off to Cappadocia this weekend, the next post should be interesting.

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