Fire, Green Beer and More
Well I promised another post about last week because it was quite interesting one. It was Newroz. It the celebration of the Kurdish new year celebrated. In reality, it is to celebrate support for the Kurdish cause. All week long there were events on campus. I must point out that the university I attend is Turkey's most liberal university, very few nationalist attend and the cause of the Kurdish people is generally recognized as just. On Monday, some of my friends attended one of the events that including dancing and fire jumping, however due a hefty amount to Turkish translations I could not (there is studying in study abroad. In any regard I was excited for the week. Finally on Thursday, I was able to attend an event. It was a Kurdish concert (videos will be posted). After three hours of drums, flutes and songs, everyone gathered outside a sign was light and a bonfire started. With the bonfire came the jumping and dancing I had heard so much about. It was crazy, very awesome to watch. I like that I have been to witness so much of the traditional culture while being here. When I first came to Istanbul, I was unsure of much traditional culture there would be in such a large, modern city. But they have a balance that is wonderful to be apart.
Before Thursday's Kurdish event, came Wednesday's Irish Holiday. I had no idea what to expect. Does anyone really expect much when they hear St. Patrick's Day in Istanbul? I think not, but Ronan and Steve (both from Ireland) insisted that we all go out. So Arielle, Jen, and I headed to bar called James Joyce. We had a full Irish breakfast for dinner complete with actual BACON! When we ordered beers, they were Green! It was awesome and rather funny that my first green beer on St. Paddy's day was in Istanbul of the places. The bar was filled with probably every American student in Istanbul but it was a good start. Next was our adventure for the night. Ronan and Steve were determine to find a pub called Belfast. Of course it was on the Asian side of Istanbul and of course we were going with our German Wolf. So we left the crowded James Joyce and took a dolmus (small taxi/large bus) to the ferry. On the ferry, we had our tea and we made friends with some other Germans that were heading to the same bar. None of us knew how to get here but our quest to find a beer on tap other then efes (Turkey's only beer?) would not be stopped. We stumbled off the ferry and around Kadikoy until finally some Turks took pity on us and directed us to our pub. It was crowded but not as corny as James Joyce was and it had a full Irish band playing. There were some funny moments such as a Turk asking Ronan if all of the UK celebrated the holiday or just the Irish part? Or Wolf attempting to sing Dannyboy. All in all Istanbul provided us with a pretty good St. Paddy's.On Saturday, we had another Lexia excursion. We started at Constantine's column headed through the Grand Bazaar and Book Bazaar, to Istanbul University. It was there that we learn about how turbulent universities in Turkey can be. You can not enter the campus unless you are student, because protest are too violent. Istanbul University has 80,000 students so its understandable that there is going to be varying degrees of political and religious thought, often clashing. Our guide told us that often times the cafeteria won't open when large protest are expected. For example, last semester there were IMF meetings held in Istanbul. I had heard about banks windows being shattered in Taksim from friends who here last semester, but I did not know that Istanbul University shut down its student hang outs, cafeteria and many professors canceled their classes.
After that we went three Mosques and the Chora (cos we love it!). I have come to the point in my trip where I can start ranking the Mosque in order of my preference. My top four are as follows
1) Şehzadebaşı Mosque with its white tiles, large dome and "elephant feet"
holding the dome up, it is the most welcoming Mosque and one of the largest that we have visited. Plus it has largest garden surrounding it.
holding the dome up, it is the most welcoming Mosque and one of the largest that we have visited. Plus it has largest garden surrounding it.
2) Laleli Mosque - a smaller Mosque with no complex around it. It sits on a brick platform that offers grand views of Istanbul especially in the Sun. It has the best stain glass window with pastel colors lighting the whole inside up and it's light blue carpet is just more then other Mosques. It offers peace in a very hectic part of Istanbul.3) Kalenderhane Mosque - It is a hidden gem among gaints. It it is not famous for its dome, architect or minarets. It is not noticable from the skyline. It is small, hidden and wonderful. It has pink walls and little circle windows. The ornaments are silver rather then gold. It is just so cute.
4) The Blue Mosque - clearly the most famous on the list. The Blue Mosque is the largest in Turkey. I love blue so its cool with me.
Of all the places, though, my favorite is the Chora. I can not rave about it enough. It is astounishing that such old mosaics can be recovered and seen in today in such fantastic shape. If there was one place I would recommend visitors of Istanbul to attend that be would it. When I ever go there, I wish so badly that my Aunt Anna could visit me. I cannot help but think how much she would love love love Istanbul- it's history, it's architecture, it's respect for religion and culture. She would take in every sight and be able to offer insights on all of it. I just know that Chora would be her favorite as well as.I think what I love about Istanbul the most is how well it has preserved its' history. Through fires and earthquakes, many of these monuments have held up. If they haven't, they have been rebuilt to perfection. How many cultures do that? A profound sense of the importance of history and culture is the best part of Istanbul!
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